A Tour of the Elizabeth Islands

June 27

June 27, 2016

P. M. — Went with R. and his boys in the Steamer Eagle’s Wing, with a crowd and band of music, to the northeast end of Naushon, “Woods Hole,” some fifteen miles from New Bedford; about two hours going. 

Talked with a Mr. Congdon, cashier of a bank and a vegetarian. 

Saw all the Elizabeth Isles, going and coming. They are mostly bare, except the east end of Naushon. This island is some seven miles long, by one to two wide. I had some two and a half hours there. 

I was surprised to find such a noble primitive wood, chiefly beech, such as the English poets celebrate, and oak (black oak, I think), large and spreading like pasture oaks with us, though in a wood. The ground under the beeches was covered with the withered leaves and peculiarly free from vegetation. 

On the edge of a swamp I saw great tupelos running up particularly tall, without lower branches, two or three feet in diameter, with a rough light-colored bark. Noticed a thorn, perhaps cockspur, with an undivided leaf, gooseberries, stag-horn sumach, not in bloom. Most of the passengers expected to find strawberries. 

Saw a common wild grape—vine running over a beech, which was apparently flattened out by it, which vine measured, at six feet from ground, twenty-three inches in circumference. It was large below, where it had already forked. At five feet from ground it divided into three great branches. It did not rise directly, but with a great half-spiral sweep or anguish. No sight could be more primeval. It was partly or chiefly dead. 

This was in the midst of the woods, by a path-side. Just beyond we started up two deer. 

I suppose the white gull I saw and heard (somewhat like the sound of the small mackerel gull of the Cape) at Naushon was the Sterna hirundo, or great tern, with long forked tail. 

A Mr. Wall, artist, at New Bedford, told me of a high pine wood or swamp some miles down Naushon with “storks’ nests” (!) in the pines. Were they blue herons?

Naushon is said to be part of the township of Chilmark, Martha’s Vineyard, and to belong to Mr. Swain of New Bedford and Forbes of Boston; some say to Swain alone. 

Walton Ricketson went down in a schooner the next day again, and found the pond near Swain’s well stocked with pickerel, of which he caught many in a few hours. 

Returning, I caught sight of Gay Head and its light house with my glass, between Pasque and Nashawena. This lighthouse, according to Congdon, who says he measured it trigonometrically, is not more than one hundred and fifty feet above the sea.

The passages between the islands are called “holes.” Quick’s is one. 

Cuttyhunk was very plain. Congdon said that he was there about thirty years ago, but could see no traces of Gosnold there, and does not believe there are any. Captain Slocum (of the day before), who has relations there, never saw any. Mr. Wall said that there was one old gentleman still alive, a Mr. Howland, who went on there with Belknap, who could tell all about it. The island is cultivated.

H. D. Thoreau, Journal, June 27, 1856


Gosnold: a town that encompasses the Elizabeth Islands, including Nonamesset Island, Uncatena Island, Naushon Island, Pasque Island, Nashawena Island,Penikese Island, Cuttyhunk Island, and several smaller islands

The Eagle's Wing was  439 tons, 173 feet long, 27 feet beam. In October 1854 she made the trip from New York to New Bedford in 13 1-2 hours, and arrived at Nantucket for the first time on Saturday, October 21st, 1854, commencing her regular trips the following week. She was.kept on the Nantucket route two years, and then operated between New Bedford and Edgartown. On July 24 1861 she caught fire opposite Pawtuxet on the Providence River and was totally destroyed.

 Ricketson's account of this tour can be found here.

Exploring New Bedford area.

October 3

Somewhat rainy. 

Walked along shore of Acushnet looking for shells. R. pointed out to me the edible mushroom, which he says he loves raw even. It is common. 

The shore was all alive with fiddler crabs, carrying their fiddles on one side, and their holes, nearly an inch over, were very common and earth heaped up.

Sailed back up the river in Arthur’s whale-boat with three sails. Her side drank water through a crack. He gave three dollars for her and spent ten more in repairs. Twenty feet long, and worth originally per haps $75. If I had stayed longer we should probably have gone to Cuttyhunk in this. 

P. M. — Rode to see some old houses in Fairhaven.

Visited the studio in Fairhaven of a young marine painter, built over the water, the dashing and gurgling of it coming up through a grating in the floor. He was out, but we found there painting Van Best, a well—known Dutch painter of marine pieces whom he has attracted to him. He talked and looked particularly Dutchman-like.

H. D. Thoreau Journal, October 3, 1855

A young marine painter.... This was the studio of William Bradford, later recognized as one of the world's most accomplished marine painters. Dutch artist Albert Van Beest, Bradford's mentor, was at that time more well known than his soon-to-be famous student. ~ source: Mapping Thoreau Country.